A detailed guide to the seven-stage process that transforms carbon from a hair sample into a lab-grown diamond — coordinated through Silmaril, with specialist HPHT growth completed by our lab partners in China.
Contact Silmaril to begin. Silmaril provides sample preparation and posting instructions before you send your hair sample.
You return approximately 10 grams of clean, dry human hair. For pet fur, Silmaril recommends approximately 20 grams where available to provide sufficient processing margin; the laboratory's technical requirement can be lower depending on sample condition and target carat. Saved locks, grooming clippings, freshly cut hair, or fur from a brush may be suitable.
The moment your sample is received by Silmaril, it is logged and assigned a unique biological Life-ID. This identifier accompanies your material through every subsequent stage, including transfer to our specialist HPHT lab partner in China, carbon extraction, growth, cutting, setting, and delivery.
Your hair is immediately placed in its own dedicated, labelled container. It will never share space with another person's or animal's material for the entire duration of the process.
Each stage of your order is documented with photos and milestone video where available, then tagged to your Life-ID — creating a visual chain of custody from intake through shipping handover, China lab growth, cutting, setting, and delivery.
Hair is composed largely of keratin — a fibrous protein whose molecular structure is built on a carbon backbone. Through a controlled thermal and chemical process, we break down the keratin chains and isolate the carbon.
The extracted carbon undergoes multi-stage filtration, washing and high-temperature treatment until it reaches at least 99.95% purity. Spectroscopic verification checks the carbon before it proceeds to graphitization.
This stage is recorded as part of your evidence pack, so the transition from hair sample to purified carbon is traceable within your order record.
Purified amorphous carbon is converted into crystalline graphite under high temperature in a vacuum or inert atmosphere. This ordered graphite structure is the direct carbon feedstock used in HPHT diamond growth.
Graphitization is a critical quality checkpoint: incomplete conversion can reduce growth yield and contribute to inclusions or colour inconsistency.
The bio-carbon graphite is loaded into a dedicated High Pressure High Temperature growth cell operated by our specialist lab partner in China, together with a small diamond seed and a metal catalyst. Typical operating conditions are:
Under these conditions, graphite dissolves in the catalyst and carbon migrates along a controlled thermal gradient to the seed crystal, building the cubic diamond lattice. Growth typically takes 35–50 days depending on the target stone and operating conditions.
One chamber. One guest. Always. No other customer's material is processed in the chamber alongside your loved one's carbon. Lab handover, chamber loading, rough stone recovery, and milestone progress are included in the photo and video record where available.
The raw diamond is removed from the chamber — rough, unpolished, and already unmistakably a diamond. It is assessed for quality, then passed to a skilled lapidary for cutting and polishing.
After polishing, the stone is assessed using the standard 4Cs: carat, colour, clarity and cut. GIA or IGI gemological certification can be arranged on request at additional cost.
The graded stone is set into your chosen 18K gold design, inspected, packaged and prepared for insured delivery.
The completed jewellery piece — together with any returnable unused material — is returned to your New Zealand address. Silmaril's customer delivery estimate is approximately 80 days from receipt of a suitable sample, including international logistics and jewellery setting. Customs or carrier delays may extend this estimate.
Your order is recorded through sample collection, Silmaril intake, international shipping handover, specialist lab processing in China, HPHT growth, cutting, polishing, setting, final inspection, and insured dispatch. These Life-ID-tagged photos and milestone clips support source traceability and help substantiate that the finished diamond is grown from your submitted hair sample.
Sample receipt, Life-ID assignment, labelling, and secure container records.
Hair-to-carbon transformation documented before specialist HPHT growth.
Lab handover, dedicated chamber protocol, and rough stone recovery milestones.
Cutting, polishing, setting, final inspection, and insured return delivery.
Diamonds are pure carbon arranged in a cubic crystal structure. Hair is rich in keratin, a protein whose molecular backbone contains carbon in abundance. The two are connected at the elemental level.
After extraction and purification, the carbon is converted into graphite. Inside the HPHT growth cell, graphite dissolves in a metal catalyst and carbon crystallises on a diamond seed under a controlled thermal gradient.
The resulting lab-grown stone has the same cubic carbon crystal structure and core physical, chemical and optical properties as a mined diamond. Specialised gemological equipment can identify its laboratory growth origin.
The raw diamond as it emerges from the growth chamber — uncut, unpolished, and completely unique.
Target clarity is VS or better. VVS can occur, but the final grade is confirmed only after the individual stone is cut and assessed.
Target output is colourless to near-colourless. The final colour depends on carbon purity, nitrogen control and HPHT growth conditions.
Both current designs feature a 0.57ct stone — a substantial, visible diamond that holds presence in any setting.
Not cubic zirconia or moissanite. It is carbon in a cubic diamond lattice and tests as diamond; specialised equipment can identify its laboratory-grown origin.
Gemological certification by GIA or IGI is available on request. A certificate documents the stone's carat, colour, clarity, and cut to international standards.
Every crystal grows individually. Carat, colour, clarity and internal growth features vary naturally and are documented after cutting and grading.
Hair contains carbon in its keratin structure. We extract and purify that carbon to at least 99.95%, convert it into graphite, then grow a genuine diamond using High Pressure High Temperature technology.
HPHT stands for High Pressure High Temperature. A typical growth cell operates at approximately 1,450°C and 5.5 GPa. Bio-carbon graphite dissolves in a metal catalyst and crystallises around a diamond seed over roughly 35–50 days.
Diamond production is approximately 60 days from laboratory sample receipt to finished diamond. Silmaril's customer delivery estimate is approximately 80 days from receipt of a suitable sample to delivery of the finished jewellery. Customs or carrier delays may extend this estimate.
It means no other customer's material is processed in the HPHT growth chamber alongside your loved one's carbon. Each sample is tracked by a unique Life-ID from the moment it is received by Silmaril.
We target VS clarity or better and D–H colour. Final grades cannot be guaranteed before growth and are confirmed by 4C assessment after cutting and polishing.
No. HPHT growth is completed by our specialist lab partners in China, and laboratory tours are not available. Instead, your order can include Life-ID-tagged photo and video milestone records across sample collection, handover, growth, cutting, setting, and dispatch. We're always available at [email protected] to answer questions about your order's progress.
The process starts with a single step — getting in touch.
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